One of the best things about living in Brighton is the closeness of Europe. It took just 1 hour 40 minutes to fly from Gatwick to Bergamo last month.

Google says: “Bergamo is an Italian city northeast of Milan, in the Lombardy region. Its older upper district, called Città Alta, is characterized by cobblestone streets, encircled by Venetian walls and accessible by funicular.”

Next morning at the hotel’s breakfast buffet (love a breakfast buffet) I noticed the huge ancient walls of the old city only about 500 meters away, so ate way too much food, pulled on my running shoes and headed out. 

I was feeling strong for a change so jogged slowly upwards without stopping much. It was a hot morning with clear blue sky. The steep streets were made of large cobbles, so it had a kind of trail feel underfoot. 

Once I made it to the paths that run around the top of the huge Venetian walls I paused to take in the view of the plain – Milan stretched out in front and the Alps were behind. 

I walked into the funicular railway station and took a photo of two women enjoying a coffee in the beautiful cafe with the awesome view behind them. 

Google says: “Surrounded by the 16th-century Venetian Walls, the medieval Città Alta (old city) is dominated by the Rocca di Bergamo fortress. Handsome piazzas house the arcaded Palazzo della Ragione, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore with its gilded interior, and the intricate marble facade of the Cappella Colleoni. Narrow alleys are lined with upscale indie boutiques and delis, as well as centuries-old cafes, trattorias, and wine bars.”

I headed into the centre of the old city. I dropped 2 euros into the hat of an accordion playing busker who posed for me without missing a beat.

Further into the old town, street shrines and wall paintings were everywhere, stuck on the faded pink walls like early religious Banksies. 

I entered the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore – such amazing Roman ornate splendour. I’m not religious but really got into the drama of all the church art everywhere. So dramatic and theatrical and unapologetically over the top. This cathedral blew my mind.

Back outside and down one of the main streets, people were already queuing for pizza, cut into huge slabs with large scissors like a piece of performance art.

We noticed during our stay there were still signs everywhere of the massive Covid outbreak that hit Bergamo so hard. Around 4500 people lost their lives as hospitals were overwhelmed and couldn’t cope. Our hotel had air purifier machines everywhere and some restaurants made you order on a computer at the front whilst chefs made your food behind plastic screens. 

I ran away from the tourists back down towards the hotel. The streets were still dozy and quiet. 

I met Sacha and ate lunch (an incredibly tasty GF chickpea flan thing) then went for un gelato, per favore.